Yesterday, as today, the international fashion scene was dominated by the so-called It Girl, style icons and brilliant minds of glamor that captured trends and defined styles. Muse of the great protagonists of fashion envied by ordinary mortals.
Like Silvana Mangana who in 1968 has descripted as follow by Roberto Capucci: “Very simple, a cardigan and a pair of trousers”. The meeting between the two took place in the famous couturier’s tailor shop. “Pier Paolo Pasolini asked me to create the costumes for Mangano in Theorem and I accepted. The first time I saw her she wore a blue cardigan and it was a true vision. He had a royal bearing. I had her try an evening dress and she wore it with the naturalness of someone wearing simple jeans. She was a woman born for this. I never met anyone so elegant. ”
Cardigan and bon vivre
The cardigan. True distinguishing element of an impeccable world. The cardigan opens like a jacket, buttons or zipper on the front. And how could it be otherwise since it also bears a noble name? It is said that it is called as General James Thomas Brudenell – VII of Cardigan – a figure between history and myth, not of an ancestral fashion empire but of the seventeenth century in the battle of Balaklava, a fundamental episode of the Crimean War, 1854 Some say that the count gave a swathe to the British Army’s outfit. Impatience and resourcefulness. Sports inspirations, marinating and popular but now noble and high elegance.
But as in the best legends, the stories cross and expand. It seems that Cardigan to relax found comfort in a comfortable wool jacket with fur trim. Do not forget the geography of the area that indicates the islet of Cardigan off the Welsh coast, or a knitwear production center in constant creative ferment.
Deep scrolls, buttons or simple absence of elements. Double breast not always, knitted, combed yarn, oversize but also mini. The declinations of the cardigan surprise without interruption. Wool or cotton, masculine and feminine even if born openly to be hung in a man’s closet. Yet the real success they did in the female world, with success and bientot. Twin set? In combination with round neck and cardigan, très bien.
A Memory through years
On a day of shopping at the Palm Springs Canyon Golf Club it seems that Frank Sinatra spent $ 30,000 to buy cardigans, various models and colors. Great entry into her wardrobes in the ’20s in the same way that the figure of the emancipated woman was affirmed on an iconic and social level.
Two wonderful It Girls among the first great supporters, Suzanne Lenglen and Coco Chanel. The French tennis champion the first, who with the accomplice advice of Jean Patou, also imposed herself on her short skirts, worn on the tennis court with oversize cardigans. Coco Chanel wore it in cotton jersey on hot summer days between sea and country chic style, while she preferred bouclé wool in winter and made it an iconic garment.
The modern woman looked out over the world and in the meantime Luisa Spagnoli gave life to her first angora woolen sweaters and the icon Lina Cavalieri thought: “Our age of cars and airplanes no longer needs to match long hair and skirts to the ankles. Women will no longer turn to the ancient. Tomorrow’s woman will always be more deeply and freely sporty. After all, it’s simple, just think that every time has its kind of woman. Ours has forged a different woman, the result of freedom of movement but also of expansion in sports”.
In the Twenties, Jean Patou wore the Lenglen with a white silk pleated skirt, a same colored cardigan and a turban band in her hair, marking the times forever. Sport fashion is born. Coco Chanel launched the success of the cardigan conquering ladies and younger girls, already in 1925 had created models in coordination with the rest of the outfit using fabrics directly from the male wardrobe. So pockets and release from the handbags.
This was just a period of sporting practice and comfortable clothing, knitwear is imposed and the cardigan fits into everyday life as an archetype of street style.
Cardigan today as yesterday
And today the desire for comfort continues to grow, fashion re-proposes the transversal cardigan from the Scarlett Johansson neo-grunge version of A song for Bobby Long by Christopher Kane to the more sophisticated models at Cate Blanchett by Blue Jasmine. With a look at the latest catwalks it seems quite obvious that the favorites are just them, like those of Miuccia Prada in mohair wool with embroidery.
Wonderful also those closed by many mini buttons, perfect with a short sweater in the same color gradation. Long live the twin-set, especially when it is linked to the bon-ton style. And speaking of twins, how can we forget Grace Kelly, Kim Novak and Tippi Hedren? In Italy it was the free-range Romeo and Juliet of Sophia Loren & co.
Fashion designers today use new textile technologies without renouncing retro lines. Cyclically it returns like to Nouvelle Vague. What is the idea? In the very sexy way, wear the oversized cardigan of your he, unkempt and make-up (fake, naked look).
Today the cardigan is up to the knees together with the leggings in an almost dress. Panetted 80s in the animal models of Krizia, striped like the models of Sonia Rykiel, patterned with Castelbajac, full of sequins and colors according to Coveri.
With sequins, buttons, one-color or fancy, the cardigan also characterizes the latest fashion shows and allows stylists various ways of use. Have you seen how beautiful the Etro model belts are? Kristina instead matches a matching shirt.
Also interesting for the evening look, cardigans and gilet become practical and comfortable with fashion details including precious stones and crystals.
How do you wear the cardigan?